Travel Tips

These are the best saunas in the world, and they’re all worth travelling for

These are the best saunas in the world, and they're all worth travelling for  | House & Garden

Located on a vineyard just a 90-minute drive south of Gothenburg, Ästad Vingård offers a unique fusion of gastronomy, wine, and saunas. This Swedish haven caters to wine enthusiasts, food connoisseurs, and those seeking a relaxing sauna experience, excelling in all three departments.

Originally an organic dairy farm with a restaurant and accommodation, Ästad Vingård has evolved to include its own exclusive wine label, the Michelin-starred restaurant Äng, a 25-room hotel, cozy cabin cottages, and a luxurious spa. The element of surprise is central to the experience here.

At Äng, diners embark on a meticulously choreographed journey through a stunning glasshouse between each of the 17 courses. Meanwhile, sauna lovers can explore a range of unique saunas, each with distinctive features. From an underwater sauna to one equipped with a hammock, or even a sauna with a tranquil lake running through it, there’s no shortage of variety. The fire sauna, fueled by specially charcoalized wood, offers a distinct heat source. Naturally, lakes and heated pools complement this sauna paradise.

What truly sets Ästad Vingård apart is the multisensory aspect. Each sauna is designed to engage not only your sense of touch and temperature but also your hearing and smelling senses. Soon, there will even be saunas designed to tantalize your taste buds. These carefully crafted elements are inspired by the beautiful Åkulla Bokskogar nature reserve, with sounds of birds in the trees, wind across the lake, and fragrances of sawn timber and moist autumn leaves. The aim is to evoke memories, provide delightful surprises, and create a profound sensory journey, which they undoubtedly achieve.

Best nature experience

Journeying to Eldmølla is an adventure in itself, especially during the winter and spring seasons. Visitors must brave the final three kilometers on foot, sometimes more, depending on the depth of snowfall in the Valdres Valley. The path leads through snowy landscapes, across a narrow walkway above a waterfall, and up a small ladder. The reward at the end is truly exceptional – a steaming oasis located at nearly 1,000 meters above the treeline.

Eldmølla, which translates to “fire grinder” in Norwegian, was a formidable challenge for architecture students from the Norwegian University of Science and Technology in Trondheim. In the heart of midwinter, they endured temperatures as low as -20°C, trekking through snow and ice on skis, and hauling materials by any means necessary to fulfill their vision: crafting a small sauna that harmonizes with its natural surroundings.

Inspired by local Kvernhus buildings, traditional mills from the Middle Ages used for grain grinding, Eldmølla’s design is both practical and symbolic. A bridge spans the stream to transport water into a bucket within the five-square-meter sauna. It can comfortably accommodate up to six people and is available for rental in two-hour increments. For those seeking a more extended retreat, Knut, one of the creators, has constructed a nearby cabin-for-rent that sleeps up to ten.

Eldmølla is part of a collection of saunas crafted by Knut and his business partner Hallgrim in the region. In the nearby village of Vang, you’ll find a variety of saunas, such as a lake sauna, bakery sauna, community sauna, and Hallgrim’s cabin sauna by the river. Thanks to their dedication, Vang is emerging as a sought-after “sauna destination,” and their annual sauna weekender offers an array of workshops, discussions, rituals, culinary delights, and refreshing beer. Of course, the main attraction remains the blissful practice of sweating it out in these unique saunas.

Best off-the-beaten track sauna

Kammi-kylä is a place of rustic simplicity, nestled in a remote setting with no access to electricity or running water. Here, visitors engage in an elemental experience of the earth. They scoop peat directly from the bog using their hands, immerse themselves in the mineral-rich moat, and most notably, partake in saunas that are true works of art.

The saunas at Kammi-kylä open up to a pristine peat bog, celebrated for its health-enhancing properties. In addition to the saunas, there’s a freshwater moat where guests can swim, and a dining area where you’re welcome to spend hours, provided you bring your own food and drinks. However, what truly sets Kammi-kylä apart is the chance to enter the enchanting realm of octogenarian “swamp man” Erkki Kalliomäki.

Erkki dedicates nearly every day to his three-hectare playground, a place where he continually builds, carves, tinkers, and, of course, enjoys saunas. His saunas transport visitors to another era, for they are crafted entirely from materials and relics sourced from the mossy wilderness. Hairy moss, which Erkki describes as “as waterproof as a goose’s back,” is used, along with grassy thatch that he treats with tar to repel critters and birds. Even the peat bricks are hand-hewn.

These saunas are adorned with a unique collection of items. You’ll find a sculpture made from charred wood dating back a thousand years, situated beside a homemade rocking chair. Sinister yet fascinating creatures, complete with wood-knot eyes and birch-whisk tails, are integrated into the decor. The interiors feature wood paneling, intricate carvings, antlers, horns, and wooden thrones. Notably, none of the walls are perfectly straight, contributing to the overall surrealism. Life on the bog seems to shift and sway in harmony with the ever-changing earth beneath.

The best times to visit Kammi-kylä are during the summer or spring when the snow has melted, turning the bog into a rolling sea. Kammi-kylä boasts two wood-fired saunas and a smoke sauna, each accommodating up to 15 individuals, and these saunas can be reserved in advance. Every year, woodworkers from as far as Wales and Taiwan, as well as curious tourists in search of an unparalleled peat bath, journey here to immerse themselves in the many talents of Erkki. This unique and unforgettable experience is well worth the journey.

Best ritual

Mooska, located in Võru County in south-eastern Estonia, may seem enigmatic with rumors of viper poison, spells, ancestor worship, and bloodletting, but don’t be deterred from visiting. These elements are indeed part of the experience but are entirely optional. Mooska’s owner, Eda Veeroja, has dedicated her life to mastering and preserving ancient Estonian sauna traditions, which she is eager to share with guests. Her rituals encompass a three-hour guided session involving practices like whisking, salt scrubs, honey wraps, and essential oils crafted from local ingredients and beliefs. Additionally, she conducts specific rite-of-passage ceremonies to celebrate milestones such as new jobs, graduations, weddings, or the arrival of a new baby. Individuals from around the world visit Mooska seeking treatment for various ailments, ranging from thrombosis and arthritis to fertility issues and depression, all under Eda’s expert care.

Eda’s welcoming and down-to-earth demeanor gives her the appearance of an ordinary farmer on a typical Võru farm rather than a renowned healer drawing visitors from afar. Mooska’s environment is devoid of crystals, totems, or New Age decorations. Instead, it boasts three ancient saunas that emit welcoming clouds of steam, set around a serene pond where bathers can cool off.

Eda inherited her extensive knowledge from her mother and grandmother, and in 2014, she successfully advocated for Võrumaa’s smoke sauna tradition to be added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. She conducts workshops and courses for those who wish to delve deeper into these customs. Moreover, she employs sauna therapy to address profound issues such as energy blockages, pain, and psychological struggles.

Although nudity is not obligatory, Mooska maintains a no-phones and no-alcohol policy. These modern distractions are seen as impediments to mental clarity. At Mooska, the focus is on disconnecting from the noise of daily life, embracing the heat, and reconnecting with the self, if only for a brief while.

Best community sauna

The Oslo Badstuforening encapsulates all three essential elements of a sauna experience: the physical, the social, and the spiritual. It started as an illicit sauna raft on the Oslo fjord in 2013, eventually evolving into a flourishing community of 7,000 members, a popular tourist attraction, and a testament to Norwegian architecture. It seamlessly shares its neighborhood with prestigious institutions such as the Munch Museum and the Oslo Opera House.

Driven by the mission to “bring sauna to the people,” the Oslo Sauna Association is brimming with innovative ideas. The sauna landscape evolves rapidly, with saunas coming and going, but a commitment to exceptional design remains a constant. Sauna offerings range from traditional Estonian “iglu” saunas to sleek architectural marvels. For example, the “Skarven” sauna features vast picture windows and a distinctive shape reminiscent of a cormorant’s beak. In 2021, it was featured in a retrospective by Norwegian artist Sissel Tolaas at Oslo’s Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. Tolaas even developed a distinct scent for the sauna, aptly named “Liquid Money,” inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the aroma of wealth before cleansing themselves with a dip in the sea.

New additions to the Oslo Badstuforening include a spacious sauna on a former ferry, providing ample room for aufguss rituals, and the “Bademaschinen,” an assortment of red and yellow saunas reminiscent of the Victorian “bathing machines.”

Sauna culture on the Oslo fjord places great emphasis on aqua gymnastics. The region enjoys more relaxed regulations compared to many other waterfront cities, encouraging bathers to dive, jump, and somersault as they please. This sauna haven has its origins in anarchist ideals, and it’s determined to uphold that spirit.

Kathryn Hardy
the authorKathryn Hardy

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